We rented a car because Cyprus felt like the kind of place that should not be reduced to one hotel, one beach or one postcard. The route became Pafos to Larnaca, on to Nicosia and Ayia Napa, then all the way back to Pafos — famous sights, unexpected stops and the sea appearing whenever the road bent in the right direction.
There were two boat trips. In Larnaca, the sunset did exactly what it was supposed to do and turned the water gold. In Ayia Napa, we went out hoping to see turtles. Spoiler: we saw none. The caves and that impossible turquoise water almost made up for it.
We also went to the Salt Lake. It was famous, it was on the route and, honestly, it was mostly dry and rather unspectacular. That belongs in the story too. Not every stop has to become a highlight for the trip itself to be one.





















