View from a dark stone passage onto a bright Cyprus beach

place 12 · an island by car

cyprus

one rented car, a loop around the island and a lot of blue in between.

pafos → larnaca → nicosia → ayia napa → pafos

field note · four stops, one loop

the island through the windscreen

the part between the photographs

We rented a car because Cyprus felt like the kind of place that should not be reduced to one hotel, one beach or one postcard. The route became Pafos to Larnaca, on to Nicosia and Ayia Napa, then all the way back to Pafos — famous sights, unexpected stops and the sea appearing whenever the road bent in the right direction.

There were two boat trips. In Larnaca, the sunset did exactly what it was supposed to do and turned the water gold. In Ayia Napa, we went out hoping to see turtles. Spoiler: we saw none. The caves and that impossible turquoise water almost made up for it.

We also went to the Salt Lake. It was famous, it was on the route and, honestly, it was mostly dry and rather unspectacular. That belongs in the story too. Not every stop has to become a highlight for the trip itself to be one.

the route

one island,
no shortcuts.

From Pafos across the south coast, inland to Nicosia, east to Ayia Napa and back again.
Route map from Pafos to Larnaca, Nicosia and Ayia Napa, returning to Pafos
pafos → larnaca → nicosia → ayia napa → pafos

01 · the road

pafos &
the long way round

The car made the island feel open: archaeology in the morning, a shipwreck by the coast, then a road leading somewhere greener.
Ancient rock-cut ruins near Pafos
old stone, still holding the heat
Rusting shipwreck beside the Cyprus coast
a detour by the water
Rocky Cyprus shoreline and clear water
the coast between stops
Rocky archaeological landscape near Pafos
history without glass around it

02 · larnaca

sunset from
the water

The first boat tour asked for nothing more than a seat, a drink and enough time to watch the light change.
Orange sunset seen from a boat in Larnaca
the larnaca sunset tour
Clouds gathering over the Mediterranean Sea
the sky before the colour
Two fruit cocktails held up beside the beach
something cold by the sea
The dry bed of Larnaca Salt Lake
salt lake · famous, dry, honestly underwhelming

03 · inland

nicosia,
away from the blue

For a while the sea disappeared. There were warm stone façades, shaded streets and another version of the island altogether.
A shaded shopping street in Nicosia
shade stretched across the street
Red and white scooter in front of a warm stone building
parked in the midday heat
Minaret and palm trees in warm evening light
stone turning gold again
Footprints and marks in pale stone
small evidence underfoot

04 · ayia napa

looking for
turtles

We did not find them. We found caves, clear water and a coastline dramatic enough to make the failed mission worth remembering.
Sea caves and turquoise water near Ayia Napa
where the water changed colour
Close view of rocky caves above clear turquoise water
the second boat tour
Green pool and waterfall with a rope swing
a cooler kind of blue
A small waterfall flowing into a green pool
one more stop before the road back
White figure of Aphrodite against a blue sky
myths beside the road

trip mathematics

two boat tours.
zero turtles.
still worth it.
Sometimes the story is better because the plan did not quite work.
Stone statue of Adonis in the Cyprus landscape
a final encounter in stone
Rough steps carved into pale rock
the path was rarely the polished one
Dinner and drinks after a day of driving
dinner after the road
Colourful dinner dish during the Cyprus trip
a very necessary stop